BurdaStyle’s Ruby shorts sewing pattern has been lurking around in my download bin for as long as I can remember. I bought it when I was still a beginning seamstress, yet never bothered to print it out.

Then the internet bombarded me with interesting-looking sailor shorts.
I decided to make my own pair.

Sailor Shorts
Save for the shorts, everything I’m donning in this picture was thrifted.

Sailor ShortsSailor Shorts

Pocket pride.

Sailor Shorts

Pardon the Day-Glo legs. I am the whitest person you will ever meet.

If you compare BurdaStyle’s Ruby shorts with mine, you’ll notice they’re quite different. So, for those interested in the specifics, I’ve provided a configuration log of sorts, which can be found at the “Read more” link. You’ll need the original BurdaStyle pattern as a reference.

Configuring BurdaStyle’s Ruby pattern to make sailor shorts

First off, I used black denim instead of linen, and it was super easy to work with. I also decided to install a 9″ side zipper and used eight 1 1/8″ buttons.

You will not be using pieces 5 (front facing), 6 (underlap), 7 (pocket pouch), 8 (pocket pouch), 9 (pocket welt), 12 (front belt), or 13 (back belt). This means you will still need to cut out pieces 1 (front pant)*, 2 (back pant), 3 (front waistband), 4 (back waistband), 10 (pocket), and 11 (cover).

* Front pant will be cut out in a way that is different from Ruby pattern. Read on.

Piece 1 (Front pant) will need to be cut into two different pieces, in order to make a circular seam at the front of the shorts. This is how I divided piece 1:

Dividing piece 1

Cut main fabric in similar fashion, bearing in mind to add seam allowances (5/8″) on each segment where pattern piece was divided. Once cut, sew pieces together so that original shape of piece 1 is maintained; all you want is for there to be a circular seam.

Cut out other necessary pieces (only the ones indicated above) according to pattern guidelines.

Skip step 6.

Skip part 1 of step 7 and instead jump to its second paragraph (pinning and sewing the darts of the back pant).

Follow step 8 according to pattern instructions.

Follow step 9, avoiding directions pertaining to pieces 5 and 6. Essentially, just baste the pant seams as image b indicates. Do not sew buttonholes.

Follow step 10.

Follow step 11 and add 9″ zipper to one of the short sides, if desired, using lapped zipper application method. An invisible zipper would look more professional, if you’d like to spring for that instead. If you would like to add a horizontal bias tape stripe like I did, wrap it around turned waistband as you baste the edges (image c).

Follow step 12. If desired, add bias tape to back waistband in same manner as described above.

Add four 1 1/8″ buttons to each front pant piece along circular seam lines.

I didn’t intend to post instructions since this was more of an impromptu sewing gig, so these instructions are likely somewhat confusing. Please comment if you need any clarification.

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